2006 Ford Escape: How to replace the stereo
Exactly one week and a day ago, Jen bought a new 2006 Ford Escape. Yesterday we took out the factory radio (audiophile 300, 6 CD in dash changer) and put in her JVC MP3 player. There are many reasons, but the major one was that it didn't play MP3 CD's...and there is no AUX input. Oh sure...there's an AUX button...but there's no simple way to interface to it. And anyone that uses an FM modulator is just despirate or dumb. Sorry, but they do suck....
It always shocks me how there is never enough information on the internet about simple little things like this. Perhaps I'm the only one interested in doing this stuff and documenting it for others to use.
So here's a basic walkthrough (with pictures...oh amazing!) oh how to do it. Of course I'm assuming some things, like I don't have to tell you the right end of the screwdriver to hold and such. The real trick of the install was integrating the new stereo to the factory installed subwoofer and amp. Which, honestly, turned out to be pretty simple. Now, for the past few years, they used to call this setup the MACH system apparently, but now it's called the Audiophile 300. Either way, the real catch is the wiring harness size. I tried to find a local source, but neither Circuit City or Best Buy had any in stock. So I ordered it online from crutchfield.com.
- Wiring harness
- Install kit
- DIN Tool Just for the hell of it (because I had a coupon that only counted over $50 bucks) I finally ordered a set of DIN tools. What do you do if you don't have them? Same thing I've been doing for the past 5 years....either 4 precision screwdrivers...or take a coat hanger and cut it up. Either way...here's a pic of the dash and back of the radio when I took it out. The middle pic is the din tools.
Ok, now that that's out of the way, let's move on to the wiring harness. There's a few caveats about the secondary smaller harness (for the subwoofer).
1. Not all wires on it are used...only the top row. So the remote turn on lead for the bottom row (and the right RCA channel for that matter) isn't used.
2. Most after market radios put out 12v+ for the remote turn on lead. Now some tests with a multimeter told me that ford doesn't do that, they only use 6v+. So after calling crutchfield, they confirmed that it is occasionally an issue that causes "popping" when the radio turns on in the subwoofer. Um...no thanks. So the next step was to figure out what to do. Russ/Crutchfield said they do have a recommended procedure of using a 12 to 5v transister. I've also heard talk about just slapping a 1K resistor on it...but I decided to go with the sure bet simply because it is the best way to do it and for a 1.50 I can't really complain (besided I needed more heat shrink tubing from radio shack). So I bought a 12v to 5v transister from Radio Shack. Once I got it, I did some tests to make sure it was what I needed, and everything seemed to work out so I wired it up. In the pics Red = 12v +, Black = Ground, and Yellow = 5v +.
Since that's been sorted out, everything else is basically match up the color's from the stereo to the wiring harness. God these things are so much simpler than back in the 90's. It's all so brainless now, it only took me 45 minutes to do the whole damn thing. Here's what I started out with:
And here's the final output:
One interesting thing about all my wiring is that I don't use crimps or solder. I don't believe, and never have that crimps work well, and solder...we'll i've soldered a lot in my life and have all different tools for doing it in car's and such. But i've found an easier way that I've been using for at least 5 years with not one single problem. I twist them, and shrink them. I take two wires, strip a 1/4" off them, hold them like an X with the center being where both wires meet the insulation. Then I twist them opposite directions around each other, and heat shrink when done. Let me show you:
Anyways, do it any way you choose....not like there's gonna be a lack of space in the dash. So the next step is slap the enclosure kit into the hole and install the radio. Honestly, it's a real freakin' tight fit...I had a bit of struggle with the top clips, but other than that it's simple. No screws or bolts really (aside from the one screw on the back guide rail. Couldn't be much simpler really...
There you have it, everything else is cake if you've ever installed a radio. The output looks like this:
And there you have it. I found the subwoofer a little underpowered once I actually had a head unit in there capable of controlling it...but hey it works and Jen's happy now that she can listen to MP3's again.
- Install kit
- DIN Tool Just for the hell of it (because I had a coupon that only counted over $50 bucks) I finally ordered a set of DIN tools. What do you do if you don't have them? Same thing I've been doing for the past 5 years....either 4 precision screwdrivers...or take a coat hanger and cut it up. Either way...here's a pic of the dash and back of the radio when I took it out. The middle pic is the din tools.
Ok, now that that's out of the way, let's move on to the wiring harness. There's a few caveats about the secondary smaller harness (for the subwoofer). 1. Not all wires on it are used...only the top row. So the remote turn on lead for the bottom row (and the right RCA channel for that matter) isn't used.
2. Most after market radios put out 12v+ for the remote turn on lead. Now some tests with a multimeter told me that ford doesn't do that, they only use 6v+. So after calling crutchfield, they confirmed that it is occasionally an issue that causes "popping" when the radio turns on in the subwoofer. Um...no thanks. So the next step was to figure out what to do. Russ/Crutchfield said they do have a recommended procedure of using a 12 to 5v transister. I've also heard talk about just slapping a 1K resistor on it...but I decided to go with the sure bet simply because it is the best way to do it and for a 1.50 I can't really complain (besided I needed more heat shrink tubing from radio shack). So I bought a 12v to 5v transister from Radio Shack. Once I got it, I did some tests to make sure it was what I needed, and everything seemed to work out so I wired it up. In the pics Red = 12v +, Black = Ground, and Yellow = 5v +.
Since that's been sorted out, everything else is basically match up the color's from the stereo to the wiring harness. God these things are so much simpler than back in the 90's. It's all so brainless now, it only took me 45 minutes to do the whole damn thing. Here's what I started out with:
And here's the final output:
One interesting thing about all my wiring is that I don't use crimps or solder. I don't believe, and never have that crimps work well, and solder...we'll i've soldered a lot in my life and have all different tools for doing it in car's and such. But i've found an easier way that I've been using for at least 5 years with not one single problem. I twist them, and shrink them. I take two wires, strip a 1/4" off them, hold them like an X with the center being where both wires meet the insulation. Then I twist them opposite directions around each other, and heat shrink when done. Let me show you:
Anyways, do it any way you choose....not like there's gonna be a lack of space in the dash. So the next step is slap the enclosure kit into the hole and install the radio. Honestly, it's a real freakin' tight fit...I had a bit of struggle with the top clips, but other than that it's simple. No screws or bolts really (aside from the one screw on the back guide rail. Couldn't be much simpler really...
There you have it, everything else is cake if you've ever installed a radio. The output looks like this:
And there you have it. I found the subwoofer a little underpowered once I actually had a head unit in there capable of controlling it...but hey it works and Jen's happy now that she can listen to MP3's again.
Comments
DATE:
So Makes sense...but what do you do to get the aftermarket enclosure back out? Say if you want to add a aux connection?
Posted by: Jason | May 18, 2006 11:50 AM
DATE:
There we go !!
i knew Dennis could not wait too long to Upgrade the Radio.
Looks much better than the Stock radio
Now all thats needed is the DVD Player and Custom PS2 installation
Posted by: Anonymous | May 18, 2006 11:50 AM
DATE:
well if I ever need to do that, then all I have to do is remove the radio chassis (using the JVC removal clips they provide w/ the stereo) and then I can hook up whatever I want behind it.
No need to remove the aftermarket enclosure at all
--------
Posted by: Dennis Judd | May 18, 2006 11:50 AM
Is there some "magic" you have to do with or to a coat hanger if using it as the removal tool? I've cut one up into the two pieces, and I'm wondering if it's too small in diameter. While the hanger seems to be going *IN* fine, I can't get the radio *OUT* with it. Is it supposed to "pop" when it's in the right place?
Posted by: Bob Baker | July 19, 2006 07:38 PM
I have a 2006 e250 van and I believe it has the same stock radio in it as what you took out. I don't have a cd changer in the van. So I was hoping to use the aux input to connect a headphone jack to( for use with such things as ipods and xm radio). Do you happen to have the pin configuration for the aux jack on the stock radio. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Posted by: Dan Owens | September 19, 2006 10:54 PM
Dan,
There is no easy way to access the AUX wiring, that's why I replaced the whole unit.
In fact, there's theory that the AUX button on the acutal radio is just a joke.
My recommendation is replace the head unit if you can.
Posted by: Dennis Judd![[TypeKey Profile Page]](http://www.dennisjudd.com/nav-commenters.gif)
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September 20, 2006 09:10 AM
Thanks for the tutorial on this. I used your tips to install a Kenwood stereo in my 06 Escape. Very useful!
Posted by: Adam | March 6, 2007 04:11 PM
Hey there. Thanks for posting this. I'm just trying to plug in my MP3 player to the AUX connection. I don't have the premium audio, just the standard one w/ 1 CD. It's a 2005 Ford. And there are no DIN holes like on yours so I'm about to tear the plastic apart to get into it! thanks, adrian
Posted by: Adrian | April 22, 2007 12:03 PM
I gotta tell you, I was a bit leary to play with the transister part, as I have no tester to test with. BUT I wired up the same transister the way the "picture" looked and got rid of the loud thump when I turned on my aftermarket radio. Thanks a bunch for keeping this page up sooooooo long for people to find help making their factory sub work (even though the factory sub is not the greatest)
Posted by: BdySncher | April 26, 2007 11:59 PM
I just had a pioneer P5700DVD head unit installed and it has the pesky e-brake detector so you cannot watch dvd's while driving (like i'm really going to watch them parked) ... I have never installed any car stereo before, but I understand I need to access the wire harness of the escape, apply a switch of some sort, and ground a wire on the head unit. Where do I start? Haha
Posted by: Rob | May 23, 2007 07:24 PM
where do you start? dude I have no freakin' clue...why would you even think I would know the answer to that?
Posted by: Dennis Judd![[TypeKey Profile Page]](http://www.dennisjudd.com/nav-commenters.gif)
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May 23, 2007 10:27 PM
Hey, what is the name of that shrink stuff? was tryin to find some of it, and not sure i got the handle of it or not.
Jeff
Posted by: Jeff | June 28, 2007 08:41 PM
its called heat shrink tubing, an they sell it at radio shack.
Posted by: Dennis Judd![[TypeKey Profile Page]](http://www.dennisjudd.com/nav-commenters.gif)
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June 29, 2007 08:14 AM
If you're taking 12V to 5V wouldn't that be a analog IC (regulator) and not a transistor?
Posted by: Alex | January 11, 2008 10:40 AM
thanks! i simply wanted to know if i had to remove the plastic trim and found i can simply remove the radio! Score!
Posted by: seth | January 26, 2008 10:20 AM
hey, is there enough room in there to pack in a ps2? I have one with 500gb hard drive and just wanna bury it... and rig something to power it on or reboot it.
Posted by: D SUTOR | January 31, 2008 01:39 PM
Good info and good pictures. Could have used some today of where to mount the satellite radio. Ended up putting it in the slot below the heating buttons on the dash. Came out good and no wires showing at all. Next up is to put in my cd player and all this info will help me.
Posted by: Nick P | March 12, 2008 09:18 PM
Thanks for your website. You are right, there really is not any install guides like yours to help understand the process. I have installed car radio's before but I was nervous taking apart my new escape. I was unsure if I had to remove the whole dash trim to get the stereo out. After looking at your advice and pics it is going to be way easier than I thought. By the way installing a DVD player in dash unit should not be bypassed to watch dvd's while driving! Its ok for you passengers though. Certain models are different. *In theory* Most older less expensive units can just take the ebrake wire and ground it to a constant ground. More complicated require a switch to confuse the unit into thinking the parking break is on, switching it on in a certain pattern. Its ILLEGAL THOUGH, DO NOT RECCOMEND. Me nor this site are liable for any advice. Its just advice.
Posted by: Josh B | March 14, 2008 12:28 PM
Around how much was the total cost for this fine installation? Thanks.
Posted by: Anonymous | March 22, 2008 07:56 PM
What is the other remote turn on lead used for? I was unsure if I should connect the two wires together or not (not knowing if there is another amp to turn on). Thanks.
Posted by: Josh B | March 25, 2008 01:08 PM
I just installed a Jensen vm9312 dvd head unit into my car using this site. Thanks for keeping it up so long. Just an FYI-if you can control the sub seperate from the bass like my head unit the Mach 300 system BUMPS. It takes all the low bass out of the tweeters as well and creates a crutial system in your car using the stock system. Just for anyone looking to get more out of their system.
Posted by: Josh B | March 26, 2008 11:05 AM
do i have to remove the dash to replace the stereo in my 2001 escape xls? where do you get the din tools at?
Posted by: Anthony Palumbo | April 15, 2008 08:36 PM
Hello, i have a 2005 Ford Escape and back when i got it, i had a 6 inch In dash DvD player installed. it takes up the entire space. i need to get take the DVD player out and so my question is simple, how do i get it out? can i just pull lol..i tried pulling a bit but it wouldn't budge fear breaking the darn thing...please help.
Rod
Posted by: Rod | May 7, 2008 10:15 PM
i dont understand why you would need the second wire harness when most aftermarket stereos only have one wire harness on them. if you could email me and let me know i would appreciate it because i just got a 2006 escape and i want to put my in dash dvd player and my subs in it. my dvd player only has one wire harness on it, and it already has pre amp outputs as well.
Posted by: tristan | August 3, 2008 09:59 PM